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Landscaping Services Hampton Roads

Sharing tips and tricks to keep your Hampton Roads landscaping beautiful year round.

Hurricane Preparation

 

September hurricane season is well underway in Hampton Roads, starting with Hurricane Florence.

 

 

Hello Hampton Roads

and other avid garden caretakers!   

 

As you know, unless you’ve been under a rock lately, Hurricane Florence
is well on her way to the east coast. She will be in full effect beginning
Thursday and continuing through the weekend. Folks are usually 
encouraged to prepare the home by buying bottled water, canned foods,

flashlights, batteries and the list goes on. However, many people forget
to prepare outside of the home which can greatly reduce damage caused
by wind and water. Preparing your home’s surroundings may prevent
major damage to your property and hours of debris cleanup

 

Here are a few precautionary measures to take outside of the home:

 

Secure lawn furniture. If at all possible, bring large objects, such as furniture,
grills, yard art, bicycles, toys, bird feeders, dog houses, or trash cans inside
a garage or storage shed. Lawn furniture can be tossed into a pool to be
protected from wind. If items cannot be brought inside, secure them with rope
or a garden hose. Large trees may act as an anchor for such items.
Pesticides, chemicals, and motor fuel should be stored in an enclosed shelter
high off the ground to prevent contamination.

Do not bring propane tanks inside your home.

 

Move potted plants. Potted plants and hanging baskets should be removed
from open areas. Bring vulnerable plants indoors if possible. If pots remain
outside, nestle between large rocks or on the lee side of a wall protected
from high speed winds. Large potted trees can be safely tipped with the top
pointed away from expected wind direction.

 

Cut the grass. Who knows when your next opportunity will be to mow the lawn?
Cut your grass to a shorter height in case bad weather persists longer than
anticipated. This will also make cleaning up post hurricane debris much easier. 

 

Protect new plantings. Young trees are especially vulnerable to high speed wind.
Stake any newly planted tree firmly into the ground and make sure existing
stakes are secure.

 

Unplug electrical cords and make sure fountains are turned off and secured.

 

Remember, anything can become a dangerous projectile in hurricane force winds.
Protect yourself and your home from such hazards. Locate your utility cut offs
for power, gas, and water in case of emergency. Otherwise, make lots of ice cubes,
fill your tub for toilet flushing reserves, and pick up some good reading material.

Stay safe Hampton Roads, hurricane season is among us!

 

 

CSE will be available for debris cleanup following inclement weather.

Our team of professions will happily clear any storm debris, including broken tree branches, from your property after the storm dissipates.

Call and schedule your cleanup early for a timely response. 

 

 

 

Russ Tolerton, President

rtolerton.cse@gmail.com

757-679-1890

@cse.landscapes

 

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Fall Grass Preparation

 

 

 

Dethatching, Aerating, Seeding

A Guide for Preparing Your Lawn in the Fall for Success in the Spring

 

Do you have bare or browning patches of grass? Do you find it difficult
to maintain an even coverage of green grassy caret throughout the lawn?
Your grass has weathered the harshest conditions of summer and now
it’s time to reinvigorate the look of your lawn. There are a number of
issues that may be stifling the overall growth of your turf.

 

First, decide whether the problem is occurring due to a fundamental issue
such as drought, weeds, overuse, or poor management. If that’s the case,
each of these issues are easily remedied by watering more frequently,
using a weed preventer, temporarily roping off an area from use,
or contacting a local professional like CSE Landscapes in the
Hampton Roads area!

 

If the issue is not so easily discernible there could be an underlying issue
leading to a growth struggle. Over time, the ground becomes compacted
and can compress root systems preventing nutrients, water, and even
oxygen from reaching the plant. All three ingredients are essential
for healthy plant growth. 

Let’s look at some techniques for improving the overall growth of your
soon to be luscious lawn!

 

Dethatching 

Thatch is a mixture of living and dead plant matter that collects at the
base of grass. A small amount of thatch is helpful in protecting the grass
from extreme heat and limiting weed growth. Too much thatch will
create a weak grass root system causing vulnerability to stressors.
To test your thatch density, remove a plug of dirt from your lawn.
The spongy area should not exceed 3/4 inch when squeezed. 

If you find your thatch is too thick, consider dethatching using proper
equipment which can be rented, or, the more arduous avenue, deep
hand raking using a leaf rake. Careful not to damage existing grass
when using the rake method. Also, make sure to compost the collected
organic matter when finished with the process!

 

Aerating

Aerating is the process of opening the surface of your lawn by removing
plugs of dirt and penetrating the upper, thick layer of organic material
covering the surface of your dirt. Too much organic material may block
beneficial nutrients and water from reaching the roots of your grass.
Aerating also promotes microorganism activity which further degrades
the excess organic layer providing more nutrients and strengthening
for disease prevention. Loosening the dirt will build a stronger root
system and allow new growth to flourish. New roots can easily expand
and nutrients and fertilizer have been introduced by stirring up compacted soil. 

There are several methods for aerating and usually you can rent equipment
from a local hardware store. The best practice is to use core aeration as
opposed to spiking or slicing. This removes the dirt in clods instead of slicing,
which could further compact your soil. Make sure to water the lawn
24 hours prior to aerating.

 

Seeding or Overseeding

Overseeding, simply put, is adding grass seed to an existing lawn to
thicken coverage and fill bare spots.  This is common practice in the
Hampton Roads area and other similar regions where cool season
and warm season grasses mix. Combining grass seed will allow for
a lush green lawn all year round.  Seed selection should,however,
be based on what type of grass already grows in your lawn. Some
grasses grow better with each other.  

When overseeding, cut existing grass to lowest height that will not 
cause permanent damage. Select a compatible seed variety for your
lawn. Consider amount of sunlight, water, and traffic when choosing
a variety. Seed your lawn after aerating or use a rake to lightly disrupt
the top soil layer before laying down seed. Use a drop spreader to evenly
spread seed across a large area or you can hand spread thin areas.
Lightly rake the area after seeding to improve soil contact. Make sure
to water your seed well during germination but not so much as to
wash the seed away. 

 

Thatching, aerating, and seeding are all activities best conducted
in the Fall. The cool season provides the perfect environment to
promote proper root growth for a thicker, fuller lawn. Following
the best lawn care practices now will ensure a bountiful lawn
come next spring. And, as always, if you need assistance to
grow your best lawn, we’re here to help!

 

 

Regards, 

 

 

 

 

757-679-1890

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Facebook: CSE Landscape Management

 

 

 

 

 

Resources

 

The Lawn Institute 

http://www.thelawninstitute.org/pages/education/for-homeowners/advanced-lawn-care/aeration/

 

Lawns Unlimited

https://www.lawnsunlimited.com/6-lawn-aeration-facts-lawn-service-professionals/

 

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Why you need more Marigold's in your life...

Why you need more Marigold's in your life...

 

'The more the Mari-er!'

 

 

Marigolds are often overlooked but these brilliant blooms are not
to be underestimated. These multifaceted flowers may benefit
your garden space more than you realize. Let’s look at all the
ways marigolds will make your life a little brighter!

 

First off, marigolds have vibrant blooms displaying warm summer

tones of red, orange, and yellow. Each plant will produce several

blooms if properly placed in an area with tons of sunshine. And the

best part is, marigolds require very little care. They are tolerant of

drought, heat, and most pests. Typically, marigolds will survive on

rainwater alone and may only need watering during extreme dry periods. 

 

 

Besides being beautiful, these fierce blossoms also deter harmful

garden pests. Plant marigolds in the garden to ward off Mexican

bean beetles, squash bugs, thrips, tomato horn worms, and

white flies. These predators can’t tolerate the strong fragrance

of the flower and will stay clear. Pair marigolds with tomatoes,

cucumbers, eggplant, basil, peppers, and potatoes for best results.

Just be sure to keep away from legumes. Also, cultivate marigolds

into the soil when the plants begin to fade in the fall to prevent

any unexpected nematode invasion!

 

 

Strategically place marigolds around your backyard or porch

where people are likely to hangout. While adding an extra pop

of color to your beds, these practical plants also scare off

pesky mosquitos! Mosquitoes avoid the pungent fragrance

of the flower similar to the effect of citronella. So plant them

anywhere you like as a filler, garden border, or in garden pots. 

 

 

This magical flower is sure to delight while putting in a full days

work by protecting your garden and your guests. And if that weren’t

enough, marigolds are edible. Don’t be shy to sprinkle some petal on

if you desire a sexy splash of color to your salad or steep the petals

in hot water to make tea that will aid digestion and cure stomach

cramps. These brilliant babes have got your back! So, go on, add

a little extra sunshine to your garden.

 

And as always, if you need some help, don't be afraid to ask!

Happy planting!

 

 

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Where to Begin with Azaleas

'Azaleas are for remembering your home with fondness

and wishing to return to it'

 

Driving around Hampton Roads it’s hard not to take notice of all the gorgeous azaleas in bloom this time of year. It is said to be a southern tradition, build a house: plant azaleas. One thing is for sure, here in Virginia we are not lacking in these beautiful spring bloomers!

 

So, lets talk varieties and planting our go-to southern charmers! There are so many different varietals of various height, color, tolerance, and time of blossom. These details will all become important factors when choosing which azalea is perfect for your garden. Let’s break it down. There are two types of azaleas: evergreen and deciduous. 

 

 

George Taber- Southern Indica

 

 

TYPES

Evergreen keep there leaves all year round but need more protection from harsh winters. Typically, in southeastern VA these beauties fair quite well in our mild winters. Look for Kurume Hybrids which are medium to large, twiggy shrubs with big blossoms. Examples: Coral Bells, Flame, Hershey Red, Hino-Crimson, Hinodegiri, Mother’s Day, Pink Pearl, Salmon Beauty, Snow, Tradition.

 

Deciduous azalea leaves turn yellow to red in the fall and shed during the winter months. Many of the deciduous varieties are native to the Americas. There are around 15 varieties native to the east coast alone. Having come from this terrain, most native azaleas are more hardy and adaptable. Examples: Rhododendron vase, Rhododendron periclymenoides, Rhododendron atlanticum, rhododendron calendulaceum, rhododendron cumberlandense.

 

 

Coral Bells- Kurume Hybrid

 

 

TIMES

Azaleas bloom all throughput the spring and some continue into early summer. The Encore series will even produce a second round of blossoms in the fall. If planned properly, a garden could boast azalea blooms up to eight months out of the year. Here are some more specifics:

 

Early bloomer- Beginning of April- Kurume hybrids (listed above), Poukhanense, Vitiate, Mucronatum

 

Mid season- late April through early May- Southern Indian hybrids George Tabor and Formosa, Carla hybrid, and many Glenn Dale varieties

 

Late bloomer- mid to late May- Indica azaleas, Gumpo, and Satsuki 

 

 

Snow- Kurume Hybrid

 

 

SIZES

Size is very important to consider when planting. You would not want to place an azalea which could grow 15 ft next to your window or foundation for that matter. Always know the size your plant will reach at max maturity. Azaleas range from 1ft to 20 ft tall and should be placed accordingly.

 

Kurume hybrids- low growing- 2 to 3 ft average sometimes up to 5-6 ft.

 

Southern Indian hybrids- fast growing- 5 to 8 ft tall and 5 to 10 ft wide

 

Robin Hill hybrids- cold hardy- low growing- 2 to 3 ft

 

Satsuki hybrids- low growing- 3 to 4 ft- some varieties spread like ground cover

 

Encore- medium growers- 3 to 5 ft high and wide

 

 

Formosa- Southern Indica

 

 

PLANT

Azaleas are fairly hardy plants surviving in low nutrient soil with very little attention necessary. There are just a few factors to consider when placing azaleas. In the Tidewater region especially,  we experience strong southwest winds. Plant azaleas between a north and east facing slope to protect against harsh winds which could easily shred the delicate branches. Otherwise, plant near a sheltering wall avoiding corners where bushes can be exposed to intense gusts. 

 

Azaleas like acidic soil which is great for us! Most soil east of the Mississippi is naturally acidic and perfect for Azalea bushes. Soil that contains excess clay or sand may need amending. Plant your bushes in a well drained soil with the root ball about 2 inches above ground level. For best results, mulch around the bush to hold moisture during the summer and retain heat during the winter.

 

Optimally, plants are installed during cool spring or fall conditions. However, you can plant during summer as long as the root system stays well watered. Plant in a location with filtered shade. Azaleas can take a few hours of direct sun but can be burnt by late afternoon heat. Some varieties tolerate sun better than others. Also, avoid planting under trees  with shallow root systems (elm, maple) which could compete with water resources.

 

Choose the best type of azalea for your space and follow these tips to get your gorgeous azalea garden started. Plant in large clusters for maximum impact especially under tall pines or along the perimeter of your yard. Either way, these beauties are sure to bring a smile to your face year after year. Keep to that southern tradition and make sure no yard goes without an azalea! 

 

 

Thanks for reading! If you found this helpful and would like more updates, tips, and information, follow us on

 

Instagram: @cse.landscapes

OR

Facebook: CSELandscapes

OR

You can call or contact us by email!

757-679-1890

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Have a great day!

 

 

 

 

Sources

Growing Azaleas and Rhododendrons - Virginia Tech

Native Azaleas - East Coast Native Azaleas

Satsuki Azalea - UAEX.edu

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Bring Your Flower Beds Back To Life

 

 

 

Hello Spring enthusiasts!

 

Guess what? It’s time to rip out the dreary decay of winter

and revitalize those flower beds. Spring is all about a fresh

start and, ready or not, the growing season has begun.

Let’s get a jump on the best practices to enhance your lawn

by following the steps here to refresh those flower beds. 

 

 

What is the overall impression your bed portrays as of now? What would you like it to say? Beds can start to look rundown after a long, hard

Winter. Snow, wind, and bitter temperatures will start to take a toll on foliage and mulch in your flower beds. 

 

The first step is to remove any extra. Pull out all unwanted growth, including weeds, and plants that have wilted, become dormant, or just

plain died. Create new space to work with by removing old, tired leftovers.

 

Trim up bushes and trees that have grown over their regimented space. The first trim of the year will set the shape of your bushes and

trees for the upcoming Spring growth season. 

 

Now, lets focus on your soil. It is always  a good idea to set yourself up for success from the start. Plus, it’s a lot easier to maintain your

beds when starting with a solid preparation at the beginning. 

 

Begin by raking out all debris including bush trimmings, excess mulch, leaves, anything cluttering the surface of your bed. Use a rototiller

or garden hoe to cultivate by chopping the top layers of soil and stirring the ground up. This will allow moisture and air to penetrate the

surface more easily to facilitate new growth. Be careful not to harm the root systems of existing foliage you wish to keep.

 

You may want to add compost at this point to reintroduce vital nutrients into the soil. Sprinkle a couple inches of compost on top of the

soil and mix it in with the existing dirt. For best results, cultivate at least six inches into the ground. This will allow the root system of your

flowers to establish a firm base for the growing season.

 

Establish a clear edge around the perimeter of your flower beds using an edging shovel or power edger. Creating a defined boarder will

help contain mulch and will give your beds a crisp overall look.

 

Use a hard rake to even out the ground as much as possible. Redistribute soil into lower areas to level your growing space and give a

uniform appearance. This also prevents water from collecting in certain areas causing root rot and erosion. 

 

Apply a pre-emergent to the surface of your bed to eliminate new weed growth. When soil is cultivated, dormant weed seeds are brought

to the surface causing new growth. Pre-emergent will stop these seeds from germinating and invading your precious flower patches. 

 

Now time to plant! Add your annuals or perennials in a space conscientious layout taking into consideration amount of sun and full grown

size of your plants. Some plants like more room than others. Check out the specific needs of each plant before placing permanently into

the ground. 

 

Pick your top layer. Choosing a top layer depends on what type of bed you are trying to establish. Some folks use rocks or pine straw which

work for arid climate gardens or pine forrest beds, respectively, but we recommend mulch for most types of flower beds. Mulch retains water

throughout the summer heat and promotes plant growth. It is an organic materials and will eventually break down releasing nutrients back

into the soil. A layer of mulch acts as an insulator keeping the soil warm on a chilly Spring night or cool on a hot Summer day.

 

Mulch comes in a variety of colors including natural brown, dark brown, black, or red. Dyed mulch typically lasts longer and adds another

dynamic to the look of your garden. 

 

Spread mulch evenly about 2 to 3 inches deep on the surface of your flower beds. Make sure to surround plant base with mulch carefully

avoiding excess piling. Too much mulch on a plant base may cause rot and bug infestation, especially around tree trunks. 

 

Now take a step back and admire all this hard work you have invested into your garden. After taking the initial steps for preparing a beautiful

flower bed, regular maintenance will ensure a clean and organized look and will keep your plants healthy and prolific. Remember to water

regularly and keep those weeds at bay.

 

And if this all sounds great in theory but you just need a little jump start,

CSE Landscapes is always here help! 

 

 

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Plant For Success

It’s coming to that time of year again friends!

All the frost is past and Spring is in the near future. Who else is pumped for the upcoming 70° February days? I. Can’t. Wait. I have already begun to plan for my Spring plantings and I want to choose some real winners that will keep my garden vibrant with little maintenance. I know, I want my cake and eat it too. Whatever that means. 

So, I’ve gathered some typical varietals that flourish on the south east coast where weather is not the most consistent and temperature can vary up to 30° on any given day. My space consists mostly of wooded area, one large full sun bed, and a small, partial shaded bed closer to the house. Here are some main players I collected and I’ll tell you why:

 

Hosta- I love Hostas. These guys are multipurpose growers and so easy to maintain. I use Hostas to fill in large areas that do not necessarily get a lot of sun. Be careful though, most Hostas like sun to partial shade so check your varietal for specifics. Hostas make for a great ground cover and keep a lock on erosion control. So, for a shady hilled area difficult to maintain, Hostas are a great choice. I purchased Guacamole Hostas which have bright green leaves and a lovely summer bloom that smells similar to Gardenias. Oh, so sweet! There are also variegated and blue species which show off a little more color. 

Fern- For more shaded areas, I have been investigating different fern options because of their ease of care and the funky texture they bring to the space. Again, depending on the variety, most ferns prefer shade but some will take part sun. As long as the soil is good and moist a fern is in its place! I found some lovely Japanese Painted ferns which showcase a silver to white to purple tint that appears painted on the leaves. I could fill the whole forest floor with these eye-catchers. Plus, ferns keep their color all year long. Bonus!

Hydrangea- The hydrangea is a perfect shrub to fill a larger area with partial shade. My favorite characteristic of this bush is the huge, bouquet clusters of flowers that hang from the branches which look amazing as cut flowers for the house. Flowers range from white to blush (Blushing Bride) and deep pink to purple/blue (Blue Bonnet) depending on the pH of your soil. This can be manipulated in the spring to vary your color outcome. This hardy shrub is disease resistant and will begin blooming Spring and well into the Summer. Minimal maintenance includes cutting back the shoots in the Fall.

Black-Eyed Susan- Being a native to this area, the Black-Eyed Susan is a natural showstopper with intense warm colored blooms radiating in the summer sun. These take better to sunny spots and work well for layered gardens. Moat varieties are between 1ft and 8ft tall and range between brilliant yellow, orange, and reddish brown. Also, being a native plant, these beauties will attract local wildlife such as birds and butterflies. Black-Eyed Susan will bloom late and give you nice end of summer color when most other plants have called it quits.

Begonia- The classy, yet spectacular Begonia, can really impress when clustered in mass groups. They showoff brilliant red, pink, or white blossoms with dark to light green, thick foliage. Plant these in areas with a lot of sun and water regularly and you will cultivate an annual that reaches 3ft tall by 3ft wide. These plants are suited for the lazy gardener as they thrive in summer heat and they self clean by dropping old flowers and immediately blooming again. That’s right, no need for deadheading these beauties!

Vinca- Another low growing annual I use to fill the beds close to the house are various types of Vinca, and there are many. These darlings come in an array of purple, red, and pink varieties giving your space a tropical feel with intense, deep tones. Easy maintenance allows Vinca to grow in all garden types from organic to raised beds and even grow well in baskets. Check out some available trailing Vinca for a dramatic hanging basket.

 

So, these are some of the easier, go-tos on my list and many of the plants will stay with you year after year (excluding the Begonia, Vinca, and some varieties of Black-Eyed Susan). Mostly, I chose these for their easy care and the natural beauty they will bring to any landscape. If you are unsure of where to start with planting your space, or you’re not necessarily a plant Guru, try some of these hardy plants and you will surely be surprised with results! If you need more help deciding what to do, CSE is just an email or phone call away! We’ll be here for you. Happy planting!

 

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What's growing on April 2017 -- 'To mulch or not to mulch; is there any question?'

What's growing on April 2017 -- 'To mulch or not to mulch; is there any question?'

"BEHOLD, MY FRIENDS, THE SPRING IS COME; THE EARTH HAS GLADLY RECEIVED THE EMBRACES OF THE SUN, AND WE SHALL SOON SEE THE RESULTS OF THEIR LOVE." -Sitting Bull


The time has come indeed. You know Spring is here when the tulips begin to rear their bulbous blossoms. Enough is enough Winter! Leave our Cherry Blossums in peace so that I may bask in their pinkish hue. 
Spring is truely in the air and Sitting Bull nailed it. We will soon see the results. This applies to all your pesky growers as well. Dandelion, ragweed, and crabgrass are all on the move. There are, however, some methods of attacking our lawns' mortal enemies. One amazing, natural solution can often be overlooked. I'm talking mulch, baby! Adding a fresh layer of mulch to your beds offers several benefits.

ONE: Mulch limits the amount of sunshine that reaches those nasty weed seeds. By filling the areas around your favorable foliage with mulch you decrease the amount of unwanted growth while adding a nice backdrop for your blossums.

TWO: Mulch holds moisture. Organic mulch absorbs water while simultaneously shading the soil beneath. The extra layer will decelerate evaporation of moisture in the soil and will consequently reduce your water bill each month.

THREE: Certain types of mulch will deter insects from invading your space. Cedar mulch is a great example. The scent of cedar is known to ward away insects such as termites, cockroaches, cloth eating moths, beetles, ticks, ants, nats, and fleas. All your favorites, right? P.S. your garden will smell glorious!

 

As if these reasons were not enough, mulch just makes your garden pop! Gives it that 'je ne sais quoi'. It adds a natural barrier between your plants and your lawn as well as creating a strong contrast. Surrounding bushes and trees with mulch will prevent damage from lawn equipment. Plastic string swirling 1000 mph through the air can be a Hostas worst nightmare! So do your plants a favor, start spreading!

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What's Growing On - Spring is Coming!

Phil may be a little off his game this year. Being 70˚ in February really got me inspired! This past weekend I rallied the family and we went full force on outdoor rejuvenation. We touched on everything from flowerbed cleanup to refinishing the deck. After about four hours, two pizzas, a large pitcher of sweet tea, and Toby Keith on the radio, we finally got things shaped up for Spring.
Now, if you are feeling inspired, I've listed some pre-spring prep reminders below to get you started.
 
Are your Knockouts blocking out the rest of your garden? This may be the last chance to prune back your Knockout Roses. Take them back few inches for a fuller look this summer. If you're working with a tight space don't be afraid to take them down to waist height. These guys will come back just as strong! Just make sure your plants do not have buds already, if so you may have missed the running window.
 
Do not prune any shrubs with a spring bloom, such as Azaleas. These plants are working hard to produce those gorgeous blossoms and can be susceptible to damage caused by stress from pruning.
 
Cut back all your perennials and ornamental grasses so that they will bounce back twice as big this summer. Cut perennials about 2" above the ground. For grasses the general rule is to take the plant down to 20% of the maximum height. 
 
Now is also a good time to divide your fall blooming perennials and transplant around the yard. This will allow plenty of time for growth and your garden will look strong come late summer.
 
Remove any extra mulch around the base of plants. Spring is the wettest time of year and excess mulch will cause molding and lead to root rot.
 
I also like to give the lawn a good raking at the start of the season. This will remove leftover winter debris such as pine needles, leaves, and sticks. Starting with a clean slate will provide optimal conditions for maximum grass root production. 
 
These warm temps have caused my grass to sprout a few extra inches this winter. The first cut I usually bag clipping to remove what slipped through the rake. By the second cut, consider redepositing clipping back into the lawn to add nutrients to your soil. Aerating the lawn will help decomposition of the clipping as well as assist with water movement and fertilization.
 
I am so ready for warm days and cool nights. These simple tasks will give you a head start on conquering spring and maintaining that luscious garden. Let me know how it all turns out!
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what's growing on?

Lawn Aeration and Seeding; BE PATIENT :)

 

Often homeowners and landscaping outfits consider the unofficial end of summer, namely Labor Day weekend, the opportune time to get out and aerate and seed grassed areas. While this practice will yield results a better use of resources is to wait! The optimal time to aerate and seed with a cool season grass (fescues, ryes, most bluegrasses) is generally between September 15 and October 15. The reasoning behind this line of thinking is three fold: aerating and seeding produces the best results when temperatures have dropped, grasses are actively growing, and weed "competition" is mitigated.

  • Sweltering summer days put substantial stress on cool season grasses, even when watered daily. As a general rule of thumb seeding yields best results when the soil temperature reaches 50 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit, which correlates to air temperatures ranging from 65 to 75 degrees. Temperatures are then still warm enough for seed germination without providing too much stress on new (young) grass.
  • When temperatures drop going into the fall cool season grasses return to active growth; [core] aeration encourages grasses to develop deeper roots and plant roots need air to survive! Aeration also allows new seed to get down into the soil. 
  • Weeds that thrive in the summer begin to die as the weather transitions toward winter. This time when warm weather weeds are dying and cool weather weeds have not yet begun growing presents the best time for new grass to take hold.
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